The Sack Suit

Early Period Sack Suit

The Victorians had a way of dressing for different events and activities, and for different times of the day. According to The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette, the first rule of guidance for the 1860s Victorian gentleman in matters of clothing is, "Let the dress suit the occasion." In a gentleman's clothing, any attempt to be conspicuous is in excessively bad taste. Most Victorian men dressed simply with little flash, for to dress flashy was to be a Dandy.

In the late 1850s and 1860s for men to look like they slept in their rumpled clothes, with sloppy unbalanced ties, greasy stringy hair, and some number of vest buttons invariably undone. This general sloppiness can be seen in thousands of Civil War era images. 

That being said, depending on where you lived or live in the United States, you occupation, and social standing your mode of dress would vary. My focus has been on the emerging middle class and that of the West. The tradition of men wearing gloves when out and about was prevalent in the Northeast, but quickly faded out in the western parts of the country due to it impracticality.   

Sack Suit

The sack suit was the choice for the vast majority of American men. Its popularity was assured by the fact that it could be purchased, readymade, at prices working men could afford. The sack suit first appeared in France in the 1840s and its use quickly spread to England and America. This style of suit was extremely popular in the Eastern United States and was originally intended for extremely informal occasions, sack coats soon became working and business wear for skilled workers and clerks across America. This type of coat is not called a “Sack Coat” because it fits loose and baggy like a sack. Sack, comes from the French sacque, and refers to the way the back of the jacket is cut. A “sack cut.” means the back is formed of two pieces only, cut relatively straight down, instead of being made up of four curved pieces.

The good number of American men did not even wear sack suits for everyday attire. Farmers, laborers, ranchers, factory workers and such usually wore a outfit of sturdy wool, corduroy or denim trousers, a wool flannel, linen or cotton pull over shirt, a hat and sturdy shoes. Suspenders were commonly worn, though they were unpopular with men who had to bend or squat a lot, like sailors, cowboys or miners. Trousers did not have belt loops until the 20th Century. Working men also frequently made use of second hand or worn out pieces of sack, frock or morning suits. Vests were also frequently worn. 

Wearing a Sack Suit

R.P. Black in the field

Unlike today were men tend to wear matching parts of their suits, the American Victorians for the most part did not. Men of the 19^th century might wear a checked shirt, a blue wool sack coat, a tan wool or cotton vest, and brown cotton ducking trousers along with a black hat and shoes. It can even be more garish than that if plaids, windowpane, and tweed items are incorporated. A good example of this is what I am wearing today; green/tan plaid shirt, light brown vest with black stripes, tan ducking trousers, a brown sack coat, black boots, and a pecan hat. My outfit matches more closely than what a working man might have worn in the 19^th century.

Sack suit coats were most commonly worn open or with only the top button buttoned and permitted for almost any stile of hat to be worn with it. Different types of hats were prevalent throughout the period. At its first appearance in America a sack suit was often worn with a top hat, but by the 1870s bowler and derby hats became the norm. 

The picture (above right) shows myself at camp in a sack suit with cavalry boots and a Wadell hat by River Junction Trading Co.. This demonstrates the versatility of the Sack suit. Although I am in a suit I am wearing riding boots and in the field, which means that I have some hard work ahead of me. There will be wood chopping, foraging, fire starting, cooking, and other field activities that can be accomplished while wearing a sack suit. However you would most likely take off your coat for some of them.

Where to Buy

River Junction Trading Company has excellent quality suits, shirts, and hats for the gentleman. However most are made to order and are of high quality, which is reflected in the price. Wild West Mercantile caries several different brands of sack suits including Wah Maker, Scully RangeWear, and Frontier Classics that are in off the rack sizes. You will have to buy them by the pieces as they do not have complete suits as an option.

There are other makers of 19^th century sack suits including Walton and Taylor, Corner Clothiers, as well as many other Civil War reenactment sutlers. The ones I have listed are reputable, while other may or may not be. Do your own research before you make a purchase.

R.P. Black